Author Topic: BUILDING A DOLL-STAND  (Read 23646 times)

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Camp

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BUILDING A DOLL-STAND
« on: October 31, 2010, 06:28:07 PM »
This is how I build my basic Doll-Stand. Several have been built by many people following this basic design. I also have some modifications that I will be adding at a later date.

All of the parts were bought at one of the major Home Improvement stores, here in America. I understand that these parts may not be available Internationally. However, This should give an idea of what is involved.

I have tried to make this as simple as possible and have only used simple hand-tools. If you have Shop tools to use. even better.

The Materials list is as follows:

(1) 3/4" X 24" X 48" piece of Birch Plywood. I cut this into (3) 16" X 24" pieces for future stands.
(2) 1" Black Iron flanges.
(2) 1" Black Iron 45-degree couplings
(1) 1" X 6" Black Iron threaded pipe-nipple
(2) 1" X 4" Black Iron threaded pipe-nipples
(1) 1" Black Iron Tee
(1) 1" X 2" Black Iron threaded pipe-nipple
(1) 1" X 3/4" Black Iron pipe reducer coupling
(1) 1" X 36" Black Iron threaded pipe-nipple
(1) 3/4" X 18" Black Iron threaded pipe-nipple
(2) 3/4" Black Iron 45-degree couplings
(1) 3/4" X 6" Black Iron threaded pipe-nipple
(1) 3/4" X 2" Black Iron threaded pipe-nipple
(1) 3/4" Black Iron pipe-cap
(1) 3/8" threaded eye-hook (to be modified)
( 8 ) #12 X 1" flat head wood screws






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Camp

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Re: BUILDING A DOLL-STAND
« Reply #1 on: October 31, 2010, 06:40:50 PM »
I begin by cutting the plywood to size.



If you don't have the ability or desire to cut a piece of plywood to size, Sometimes the Home Improvement store will cut a piece to size, or will sell smaller pieces.

It is VERY IMPORTANT to use Plywood vs. a grained-wood, as grained wood will split. Plywood is a Laminated product and has strength.

This is also the time to round-off any sharp edges and/or corners. And apply any stain or Varnish.

This picture represents a simple pencil-line, on center, made by a square.Also pictured is some aerosol varnish and stick-on felt pads.

Talking Doll Since May 26, 2004

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Camp

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Re: BUILDING A DOLL-STAND
« Reply #2 on: October 31, 2010, 06:57:21 PM »


One of the flanges is screwed to the base.

Note 1 The flange screws are not installed on the center line so that any dis-assembly for travel can be accomplished by not having a screw under a fixed pipe.

Note 2 I installed one of the flanges first, so I could use the base for leverage in tightening the fittings.

Assmbly of the Tee, Nipple's and Couplings are illustrated below. Make sure everything is fairly tight and straight.

Fasten the second coupler to the Base.



Note 3 The wood screws will protrude slightly from the bottom of the base. Sand or grind smooth.

Installation of casters or pads can be done at this time.
Talking Doll Since May 26, 2004

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Camp

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Re: BUILDING A DOLL-STAND
« Reply #3 on: October 31, 2010, 07:10:45 PM »
The 1 X 3/4" reducer-coupling needs to have the 3/4" threads ground out so that a 3/4" pipe nipple can slide through it into the 1 X 36" upright pipe-nipple.



The 36" upright pipe nipple will also be drilled through so as to make the top of the stand height adjustable. A 3/8" hitch-pin will be used for this stand. However, the pipe can also be drilled and tapped for a bolt adjustment.






The top of the stand consists of an 18" X 3/4" long pipe nipple that will slide through the modified reducer coupling and into the 36" upright. This will be drilled with several holes for height adjustment. I have found that 6 holes, spaced 1" apart is sufficient for most dolls.
Talking Doll Since May 26, 2004

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Camp

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Re: BUILDING A DOLL-STAND
« Reply #4 on: October 31, 2010, 07:17:25 PM »
The top assembly has 2 45-degree couplers and a short nipple that is capped.

The cap is drilled on center to accept the 3/8" threaded eye-bolt, that has been modified by cutting a section out with a hack-saw and grinding any rough edges smooth.

Note: I used 45's instead of a 90-degree coupling as it is better hidden for photos.

Talking Doll Since May 26, 2004

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Camp

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Re: BUILDING A DOLL-STAND
« Reply #5 on: October 31, 2010, 07:29:56 PM »
The following pics are of the Doll-Stand after the parts have been sandblasted for future priming and painting.

This version also has a unique modification from the original design. I used the adjustable slide from a 3/4" bar-clamp kit. Available at any woodworking store, or the Home Improvement chains.



A shallow slot was ground in the 3/4" pipe, so that it will not rotate when slid into the 1" pipe. Use a 1" pipe that has a WELDED SEAM INSIDE



This demonstrates how the Bar-Clamp modification works...



And a few pics of the Doll-Stand with a finished base.





More pics are here:  http://www.ourdollcommunity.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=204
Talking Doll Since May 26, 2004

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litlluvr

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Re: BUILDING A DOLL-STAND
« Reply #6 on: October 31, 2010, 08:07:42 PM »
I would just like to warn folks to be aware of a couple of things while
getting the parts for your stand...

1. The two base flanges that mount into the plywood base are usually
    made by casting. They may NOT come out flat!! Be sure to check and
    see if the base flanges are flat by putting them on the floor while at
    the store and screwing in the 6 inch piece of pipe. if it doesn't look
    straight up & down, then keep looking for base flanges that are flat.

2. When you get the 36 inch piece of pipe, BE SURE to check for a ridge
     inside of the pipe!! If the ridge feels too built up, that means the 3/4
     inch pipe will NOT slide inside of the 1 inch diameter pipe!! I've been
     told that there is some seamless pipe out there. Test fit the 3/4 inch
     pipe inside of the 1 inch pipe to be sure it will work out Ok. You may
     have to get the 3/4 inch pipe machined down a few thousanths for
     it to fit properly inside the 1 inch pipe.

NOTE:If you are building the newer version of Camp's stand (The
      one that uses the Bar Clamp...) , then you will want the ridge left in
      the 1 inch pipe. Just make sure that you  have the slot made in the
      3/4 inch pipe so that it will fit inside the 1 inch pipe.

     Despite those two problems that set me back a little, my stand is
     comming out fine!

     Take care! litlluvr, Yoshe, and Amiko.

happiness

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Re: BUILDING A DOLL-STAND
« Reply #7 on: October 31, 2010, 09:50:49 PM »
We're getting ready to start making a doll stand for Stacy and this info will be very helpful. Thanks Camp and litlluvr! :)
I've never met a Doll I didn't like!!!

ourdoll1

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Re: BUILDING A DOLL-STAND
« Reply #8 on: November 01, 2010, 08:34:11 AM »
Ohhh a Dewalt cordless drill! 8)

 Great info Camp, thanks for sharing. 

mytime

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Re: BUILDING A DOLL-STAND
« Reply #9 on: November 01, 2010, 02:22:06 PM »
Hi All,

Camp great photo's, LL good addition.
This stand is a very easy to make stand. I have not made this stand, I can get here in the Netherlands the cast steel piping, but I can not get the flanges or can get them only very expensive thus I choose to weld a stand instead.
Maybe not needed for those who are used to craft steel, but this stand is easy to make thus people who are not used to crafting steel may do it so here it goes.
When I made my stand I had to drill the height adjustment holes too, its not easy to get them right with a hand drill, the drill will slip away, one needs a little tool to avoid this:
http://www.stanleyworks.nl/CatalogImages/1188_prev.jpg
Put it on the place where the hole needs to be drilled and knock it with a hammer, it will leave a mark in which a sharp drill is able to start the hole without sliding.
Drill steel also at low rpm, to avoid a burned drill that can not cut the steel right any more, and if you have the access of a little cutting oil that may be of help to put in the hole you are drilling, to cool the drill.
It will make it a bit easyer to get the holes in the right place, however one still needs to drill them with care else the drill will slip, a drill press will be of great help when drilling that holes.

Further just a thought, but on my sailboat I have a rule that parts that get a lot force are not assembled with screws but are assembled with bolts because on sea or lake such screw assembled parts will sooner or later break, however I talk about forces that are more than a doll may cause. Although I think the 4 screws will hold everything if it comes to silicone lovedolls, if one doubts, one can modify this design a little by glueing 4 pieces of plywood (e.g. 2" X 2") on the 4 edges of the base, thus that the base stands free from the floor and glue the foam pads below that 4 pieces of plywood or  use casters on the edges instead of the 4 2" X 2" pieces of plywood. This design allows the flanges to be bolted to the plywood base using e.g. bolts with a flat allen head, which sinks into the flanges like the screws do, with the 4 2" X 2" plywood foots of the base for leaving space for the nuts & washers under the base, adding a lot strength, while the stand may be even more stable with the small 2" x 2" feet on a not perfectly even surface.

Mytime & Helen & Carmen
Doll community member since april 2003, doll owner since august 2004

Camp

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Re: BUILDING A DOLL-STAND
« Reply #10 on: November 03, 2010, 11:54:38 AM »
I have added additional pics and incorporated a new height adjustment feature.

Please see the original posts.
Talking Doll Since May 26, 2004

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Perry

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Re: BUILDING A DOLL-STAND
« Reply #11 on: November 03, 2010, 06:21:44 PM »
Nice work, Camp!

Great tutorial photos too!  wow, very clear and instructive.


I have added additional pics and incorporated a new height adjustment feature.

Please see the original posts.
Perry

Ceej

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Re: BUILDING A DOLL-STAND
« Reply #12 on: November 04, 2010, 05:47:56 AM »
Very clear consise and easy to follow! great tutorial Camp!
"Leaving it to the imagination" is highly overrated.




Sandy is a B6 F1 Realdoll. In addition she has several F1 expression faces as well as standard F10 and f11 faces. She also has several sets of reuseable "Real Breast" prosthetic breasts.

mytime

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Re: BUILDING A DOLL-STAND
« Reply #13 on: November 04, 2010, 01:37:12 PM »
Campdaan wrote
Quote
I have added additional pics and incorporated a new height adjustment feature.

Please see the original posts.

Makes it a lot easyer to build, certainly for people who are not used to craft steel, because they have not to drill any more, only very little steel crafting has to be done now.

Mytime & Helen & Carmen
Doll community member since april 2003, doll owner since august 2004

happiness

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Re: BUILDING A DOLL-STAND
« Reply #14 on: November 04, 2010, 03:30:49 PM »
Camp, you did do a great job in explaining.....even I understand!!!! :D
I've never met a Doll I didn't like!!!