Author Topic: BUILDING A DOLL-STAND  (Read 23645 times)

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litlluvr

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Re: BUILDING A DOLL-STAND
« Reply #75 on: February 10, 2013, 09:28:24 PM »
Hi Aikagi. I also ran into the same situation you did with a seam inside the pipe
that wouldn't allow the smaller 3/4" pipe to slide into. What I did is first used a
half-round file to get at least 8-10" inches of the seam removed / smoothed down.
I then took the chuck off of my hand drill and figured out that it was using a 7/16"
thread. I went to my local hardware store and bought some 1/2" diameter steel rod
and a 7/16" die and threaded one end of the rod to screw into the drill chuck. I cut
the steel rod to 1 foot in length and ground down the other end (try to grind this end
as round as possible...) to insert it into my 3/8" chuck on my drill motor. I also brought
some grinding stones that would fit inside the 1" pipe

The set-up worked pretty good smoothing out the rest of the seam. The only problems
I had is that I wasn't able to grind a nice rounded diameter on the end of the rod that
went into my drill motor chuck and that did cause some "wobble" in the set-up. I also
had a problem with the rod wanting to come out of my drill motor chuck since both the
chuck and the rod had smooth surfaces (What ever happened to serrated jaws in a
drill chuck ??). I just grabbed the rod with a piece of cardboard while running the drill
at slow speed and kept pushing the rod back into my drill motor. I'll have to roughen
up the end that went into my drill motor chuck next time in hopes that it will grip better.

Anyhow, that's how I got around the 1" pipe seam problem.

Take care! litlluvr, Yoshe, Amiko, Marla, and Michiko.

incred

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Re: BUILDING A DOLL-STAND
« Reply #76 on: February 11, 2013, 07:37:48 AM »
Actually if you are building a stand that uses the pipe clamp for adjustablity you need the groove so the head can't swing to the side. Just ask Z-dr about his lap top  :(

If you drill holes for a bolt, then you could take out the weld. For me it was easier to grind a groove.




Ray Rentell

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Re: BUILDING A DOLL-STAND
« Reply #77 on: February 11, 2013, 09:34:45 AM »
The things we do for our doll pleasure never ceases to amaze me.
So many solutions to the same problem, well done LL/Incred.

One Question for you Incred, how do you thread the pipe after cutting to the length's you required ?
Over here the gear you would need to do this is specialised plumbing gear.
In fact it is harder and harder to get black iron tube (Gas Barrel) here as we almost exclusively use copper or plastic tubing now .

After reading through this thread again I noticed there have been comments on using simple block and tackles for lifting dolly
Well for those who do not know there are blocks that have things called 'Cleats' on them, you can see it in the photo.
what these do is hold the rope for you at the setting you want obviating the need for an anchor point to tie the rope to
hope that helps, these are available from any ships chandlers or boat shop.


The biggest advantage here is that you can lock the rope one handed, useful if the block is mounted over say a bed, no fiddling fixing the rope.
for album click the pic

litlluvr

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Re: BUILDING A DOLL-STAND
« Reply #78 on: February 11, 2013, 03:25:26 PM »
My solution for preventing the 3/4" pipe from swerving around inside the 1" pipe
was to drill a 1/4" hole and tap it with a 1/4-20 tap and insert a threaded knob
to clamp the 3/4" pipe in place.



This is if you want to remove the seam inside the 1" pipe to make the 3/4" pipe
fit and slide better.

Take care! litlluvr, Yoshe, Amiko, Marla, and Michiko.

incred

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Re: BUILDING A DOLL-STAND
« Reply #79 on: February 11, 2013, 08:44:51 PM »

One Question for you Incred, how do you thread the pipe after cutting to the length's you required ?
Over here the gear you would need to do this is specialised plumbing gear.
In fact it is harder and harder to get black iron tube (Gas Barrel) here as we almost exclusively use copper or plastic tubing now .



Actually the pipe comes in different lengths already threaded. The main length is a standard 3 foot. The hardware stores here can also cut and thread pipe.

I do have the advantage of a pipe threader from work if I need a certain length.


Not that I would use a winch on a stand but you could. I do have a couple models that I use for lifting dolls.

Wench Yoshi using winches  ;)


Z-Dr

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Re: BUILDING A DOLL-STAND
« Reply #80 on: February 16, 2013, 09:30:04 PM »
... Just ask Z-dr about his lap top  :(

A little electrical tape and some superglue (plus a new screen) and we were back in business.

Roselle got bruised a bit too, but on the bright side, she invented a new sport: Laptop Diving!

Aikagi000

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Re: BUILDING A DOLL-STAND
« Reply #81 on: March 26, 2013, 01:44:46 PM »
Report: Doll stand is working great! I made a last minute change to the head though. Rather than the two 45 degree adaptors with nipples. I used one 90 degree and a short nipple. This makes for a shorter distance to the pole and keeps the weight more centered.  My base is only 18 by 18 inches square but is pretty stable. Now I need to see about a booty bumper to keep V standing more upright. Pictures soon.
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muzza

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Re: BUILDING A DOLL-STAND
« Reply #82 on: January 08, 2014, 04:53:20 PM »
A selection of homemade stands.



I also have a square metal stand (shown earlier on a previous page).
I prefer the stands made from wood as they are lighter and cheaper & easier to make and modify (if necessary).
Ah Love, could thou and I with fate conspire to grasp this sorry state of things entire. Would not we shatter it to bits, and then, remould it nearer to the hearts desire.

sam

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Re: BUILDING A DOLL-STAND
« Reply #83 on: August 08, 2015, 02:20:41 PM »
The plans and finished products look good. Do you think they would be able to hold up a 100lbs doll? After the purchase of the doll is complete, getting another four hundred bucks for a stand will be pretty rough. Does anyone have a doll with real punched in eyebrows? I wondered how often you had to replace them and if the first aid kit is something that need to be purchased pretty soon after the doll comes.

sam

incred

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Re: BUILDING A DOLL-STAND
« Reply #84 on: January 06, 2016, 11:10:21 PM »
After this past DollStock I noticed the screws that hold the pipe to the base were getting loose, or stripped. In Myffy's case the screws stripped out completely and I caught her before she hit the ground.

The main reason the screws pull out is because these stands get taken apart for transport.
Also the plywood these days isn't the best.

When making this last stand I thought of using T-nuts, and then went back and fixed all the old bases. Except Myffy's Hers was my first stand and it had been drilled and re-drilled to many times plus the new one is a wider base.

T-nuts are metal nuts that fit inside a drilled hole so they don't protrude to much from the surface. This way they won't scratch the floor if you use felt pads in the corners, and they certainly won't if you use casters.

This is how you install them. First align the pipe to the base and mark the holes;



Next drill the holes with a 1/4" drill bit;



Turn the base over, and hammer in #10-32 x 5/16" T-nuts.



Flip the base back over, and screw the flanges to the base with #10-32 x 1" oval head screws. Unfortunately they come 3 to a package so I had to buy 3 packages, and have an extra screw. The T-nuts come 4 to a pack for an even number;



If the screws are a bit long you can grind, or sand them down flush. Less likely to scratch your floor this way;



And your all done. Enjoy your doll.

ttnlbtpd

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Re: BUILDING A DOLL-STAND
« Reply #85 on: January 07, 2016, 07:00:01 AM »
When building my stand I used two wood screws and two machine screws with underside washers/bolts to secure the flanges. Of course if your stand doesn't have some type of underside elevation (like wheels) that wouldn't be possible.
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FlashGordoll

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Re: BUILDING A DOLL-STAND
« Reply #86 on: January 08, 2016, 08:25:07 AM »
Those T-nuts are a great idea for the base mount.  :thumb:  I've even welded those things into hollow machinery pedestals before so guards could be bolted on, necessity being the mother of invention..