Author Topic: Platinum LD Recore  (Read 3489 times)

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Mahtek

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Platinum LD Recore
« on: January 01, 2015, 08:23:33 PM »
Platinum silicone will have a longer lifespan than tin, but it's not infinite. Which means some day your platinum silicone doll may need a recore, as my Lovable Doll did. Platinum (Pt) silicone will not adhere to cured Pt silicone, so the temptation would be to use tin (Tn) cure silicone instead. This is what Realdoll does with their repair kits, and it works, but as Tn silicone it will still have a shorter lifespan.

I wanted to keep my LD all Pt, and this is how I did it.

Background

My LD was my first Pt doll, and as a no longer produced doll, she's a treasure. My only complaint with her was that she was too tight. OK, get the Rom Jeremy stand-in jokes out of your system now, because that's not the case. In younger years I could use my erection to pry a door off of it's hinges, but not anymore.  :( Oh, it still functions on command, but it's as out of shape as the rest of me. So for me, too tight means tough to get into.

Years ago, another member had posted about opening up their LD. I gave that a try. Lacking a suitable core, I "painted" Smooth-on Dragon Skin Pt silicone over the inside to smooth out the rough spots. It worked! Sort of. There were still rough spots, and a little of the silicone would come out with every cleaning and after a few years it was all but gone. So she needed another recore, and this time I vowed to do it right.

Materials

I went with Factor II VST Pt silicone. The reason is simple. They offered a product called A-306 Primer, an adhesion promoter for Pt silicone. I also ordered some Functional Intrinsic II pigments for coloration. Since I'm no expert on Shore Hardness values I got 3 different hardnesses, 01, 10 and 50. This proved very beneficial later on.

The Core

This was not my first foray into recores, or even custom recores. My last recore of my RD B5 was to make her a Sports Edition, moving her vagina opening forward and giving her a larger core to help prevent Tn silicone splitting.


Left to right, a standard RD core, my RD B5 core, the wax form for the new core.

Yup, it's big. as big as I dared to make it. Why? Because it would be easier to remake a smaller core and fill in rather than have to dig out and fill to make it bigger if it was too small!



To make it, I formed it from canning wax, making sure that the core would fill and seal the opening of the replacement labia. My intent would be to cast the core and attach the labia at the same time, ensuring perfect alignment.



Once I had the core formed, a cast it in silicone inside a suitable container. I used the VST-10 silicone for the mold.


WAX FLOATS IN SILICONE! While it's setting up you need to hold it down or put something on top of it.

While that was curing, I began by cutting out the old labia and using a piece of 1/2 inch copper tubing sharpened into a tubular "knife" to begin cutting away at the insides with a pushing, twisting motion.


Nice start, a lot more to remove.  :o

Once the silicone had cured I put the core mold into the oven at 220F, tipped down into an aluminum pan to melt out the wax.


The wax is out, and hardened in the paper bowl. It's called lost wax casting, but I still have all of my wax!

Next I coated the inside with a thin layer of liquid dish soap as a release agent, then turned it upside down for 10 minutes to let any excess drain out.


Then I mixed up some fiberglass resin and catalyst, filled the mold and suspended a 3 1/2 inch wood screw into the curing resin. This will be the handle you use to pull it out of the doll!


If I had coated the inside out the tube with dish soap, I could have made a tiny air hole at the bottom and pulled the mold out of the tube, leaving the mold as reusable. This is the second time that I've made this mistake.

I placed the labia onto the core and checked the fit.


Nice, but I needed to force it to go in. More trimming is needed. Note! Clean and dry the core before you do this!

Use a light frequently to check your work.




Make sure to check and see if you've broken through to the rectal cavity. If this happens, you will have to insert a dowel or something to fill that cavity or your silicone will just flow out and not stay where you need it.

Now, get her upside down! I washed her out in the shower and dried her out, now I'm using a piece of disposable shop rag clipped into hemostats and dipped in acetone for the final clean out.


Notice the belts set aside to hold her legs together during curing. The tube is for an aquarium aerator used for drying and removing vapors. (Thanks, Muzza, for this great idea!)

Once dry and vapor free, I applied the A-306 primer the same way as I cleaned with acetone. I started with the shop rag, but a cotton ball proved to be a far better applicator for the primer.


As per the instructions, dry the primer before adding the silicone. Again I used the air pump.

I cleaned the core and reapplied dish soap, then carefully mounted the labia on the core. Next, I applied primer to the sides and back of the labia where it did not contact the core, so that it would adhere properly to the doll.


Let the primer dry.

Now, check to make sure that I have everything staged, Belts to hold the legs together, towels underneath her, towels stacked copiously nearby, check! The green plastic in the hemostats was meant to be used as a spreader, to paint the silicone onto the sides of the cavity prior to the insertion of the core to ensure good adhesion. It was not used. In the heat of battle I just used the tongue depressor mixing stick that I had in my hand. It worked.



Now I mixed the silicone. I used the VST-01, the softest. The test mix that I did was soft, but seemed durable enough. I added Dusty Pink pigment, which very closely matched the labia color. I mixed 250 grams of material.


That is an insane amount. I weighed the remainder and found out it took only 50 grams to fill her.

Insert core and labia.


Terrible picture, taken with a timer.

Pull her legs together with the belts. This holds the core and labia in place, and squeezes out any trapped air and excess silicone.


This is where that stack of towels comes in. The silicone will ooze out until the pressure equalizes. You will be wiping it over and over again like a madman until it stops.

One half hour later, the silicone is cured, and I started using tinted one part adhesive to make the final labia attachment.


Let sit overnight.

Something is wrong! The silicone left over did not cure as expected!  :o


It's way sticky and far too soft! What went wrong?!  :'(

I went back to the technical data sheet. Minimum cure temperature is 68F, curing below that temperature can significantly effect silicone properties. Thermostat set to 69F. Actual room temperature, 65F. I failed!  :(

I removed the core, and cleaned out the useless goo. The labia remained attached, which was fine. I cranked up the thermostat to 75F and baked the doll under an electric blanket overnight. In the morning, I re-primed the cavity, remixed the silicone and re-poured and inserted the core.


Temperature check.  :thumb:

Same result. Twice. I went back to the website for Factor II. I found that the silicone itself was the same for all 3 grades, it was the catalyst that was different! I did all of my initial test samples at the same time. I must have cross contaminated the last sample and it came out harder than normal! :facepalm:

So I did a test batch of the VST-10 using it's catalyst, and a couple of drops of the VST-01 catalyst. Bingo!  :) Cured solid, yet soft.  :thumb:

The fourth pour worked as expected.

Removing the Core

This is a tricky part. even if you use a release agent, you are still trying to pull a form out of a perfect fit, and if you're not careful, the resulting suction can destroy all of your hard work. I spread her legs as far as they would go, grabbed that screwhead with a pair of pliers and began slowly moving the end of the core in a circular motion, adding a few drops of water into the opening. The water makes the dish soap more slippery, allowing greater range of movement of the core until an air gap can be created and with a loud SLURP_POP, the core came out clean!

Looking inside, all gaps where filled and the silicone had adhered to the sides as I had hoped for.

So that's it. Recore is done, she's all platinum and should remain solid for many years. And yes, she's not too big, and we're getting along just fine.  ;)

Mahtek & his Ladies
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Ceej

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Re: Platinum LD Recore
« Reply #1 on: January 01, 2015, 08:55:18 PM »
This is a great tutorial!
and that's an understatement.

I plan to do a recore in the future and this has helped out a lot.
Thanks :)
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incred

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Re: Platinum LD Recore
« Reply #2 on: January 01, 2015, 10:19:11 PM »
Excellent work Mahtek!!

I have to do a core on Tira Misu. She is a bit different because she has an insert. However the early Boy Toys had one insert for both openings with a reinforcing fabric in the taint.

The problem is the fabric comes out of the thin taint, and the cavity is big for the insert, which pushes in when you do. The later inserts were just the vj and had a fixed anus. I was planning to recore her with the new insert and anal core. Up until now I only had the tin silicone, but this sounds like the best option, but with the harder shore silicone to help hold the insert in place.

Actually a combination of softer shore for the butt, and harder for the insert  :thumb:

pageophile

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Re: Platinum LD Recore
« Reply #3 on: January 02, 2015, 01:38:18 AM »
Thanks so much, the pictures and description are very well done.

Always good to have first hand DIY information, someone that's actually done the work.

Fingers crossed she'll be as good as new for year to come!

 

mandos

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Re: Platinum LD Recore
« Reply #4 on: January 02, 2015, 04:11:56 AM »
I'm really impressed you were able to pull this off, it looks so scary to cut the doll - especially such a gem as this one - she is stunning, even with her head off and in that position. Glad things worked out and that it means years of bliss to come  :thumb:

Haremlover

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Re: Platinum LD Recore
« Reply #5 on: January 02, 2015, 01:14:49 PM »
Phew! What an undertaking. A labour of love indeed. Thanks for showing us. This thread should really go into a sticky somewhere as it's incredibly helpful reference.

Best wishes

Harem
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Mahtek

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Re: Platinum LD Recore
« Reply #7 on: January 02, 2015, 06:09:10 PM »
Thanks, everyone!

It was a lot of work, but my LD and the collection of characters that body serves is well worth it. And if this info helps even one person avoid mistakes and get the job done to their satisfaction, then that's frosting on the cake!

Ceej,
I hope that it does help, and remember, I'm only a PM away!  ;)

Incred,
I'm certain that you could do that modification in 2 separate hardness's. Do the anal cavity first, filling with her lying on her back so that the silicone pools around the anal core, then once that cures invert her and pour for the vaginal core.

Mandos,
Though I've done it many times, it is never easy to put a blade to a doll. It's even worse when you're working on someone else's prized possession.

Harem,
I don't think the thread had been read twice before Camp made it a sticky, but thanks for the vote!


Mahtek & his Ladies
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pygmalion2

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Re: Platinum LD Recore
« Reply #8 on: January 02, 2015, 07:53:18 PM »
Great work Mahtek.  It is psychologically very difficult to cut into something that means so much
to us.  These repairs are difficult and have to redone several time before they are successful.
Vicki's recore is still not quite complete and I am on my 4th try. ???
All the best in 2015,
Mark
Realdolls and Sinthetics

incred

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Re: Platinum LD Recore
« Reply #9 on: January 02, 2015, 08:17:03 PM »
Sorry to hear that Pygmalion. The old tin dolls can be difficult. A lot of the time it is the materials from Abyss. The last job on Ceilidh the silicone was too hard, and the labia split while attaching it. Another time the catalyst was bad on a new kit.

If you can it would be better to buy the supplies from the source.

Ray Rentell

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Re: Platinum LD Recore
« Reply #10 on: January 03, 2015, 01:42:35 PM »
Amazing,what a great tutorial , good to see the LD getting the attention she deserves.  :thumb:
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Mahtek

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Re: Platinum LD Recore
« Reply #11 on: January 03, 2015, 02:57:36 PM »
Pygmalion,

Thanks. I know that you too, have had to put blade to silicone far too often, and it never gets any easier.

Ray,

Thanks, and actually, she getting a lot more attention, now!  ;)

Just a side note to all of this, when I was removing silicone from the vaginal cavity, I discovered some mildew inside. This is not the first time I've found this in a doll. I've always done my best to clean and dry my dolls thoroughly, but it's an area of stagnant air. That aquarium air pump in the pictures was not purchased for this operation. It was purchased for drying out the inside of the doll after cleaning, and gets used every time the doll gets used. At a cost of around $7.00, the smallest and cheapest one that I can find works wonders. Low noise, heat and energy costs means you can put the hose end into the doll and let it go for hours, but a half hour should do fine if you don't have puddles inside of her. If you can afford the doll, you can afford this for your own health's sake.


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muzza

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Re: Platinum LD Recore
« Reply #12 on: January 08, 2015, 06:08:51 PM »
Excellant tutorial which should be made a sticky & perhaps with reference links to the earlier threads on this issue.

As I am quite content with the current state of Noni, having 'tubed' her out, smoothed the insides by painting with a brush with the RD 2 part tin silicone and fitted a new labia, I don't need to do another recore on her and probably never will now at my time of life.

Quote
as a no longer produced doll, she's a treasure.
Absolutely - but are they saleable / adoptable, especially if shipping costs are high & are scarred and broken - though still very much functional? Makes me thoughtful about my planned funeral arrangements.

Quote
aquarium air pump
Good advice. Been using one for years to ensure internal dryness after a rinse with antibacterial soap and initial drying with a clean absorbent cloth carefully poked up as deep as possible since I saw a doll way back in TDF days of a doll with mildew around her crotch.
Ah Love, could thou and I with fate conspire to grasp this sorry state of things entire. Would not we shatter it to bits, and then, remould it nearer to the hearts desire.

Stephanie Doll

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Re: Platinum LD Recore
« Reply #13 on: July 14, 2015, 05:17:30 PM »
Thanks for the detailed info. It looks like a grueling process. My owner desperately needs to perform some type of vaginal upgrade on me.

How has the new core held up to "activity" over the last six months?

Mahtek

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Re: Platinum LD Recore
« Reply #14 on: July 15, 2015, 07:38:55 PM »
Stephanie,

It's held up quite well! No regrets.

With most doll repairs, it is more scary than difficult. People worry about scars, but tears and splits are just as unsightly. And the process can be spread out over as much time as is needed to get good results.


Mahtek & his Ladies
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